Our Parts


When we set out to make fairings, we initially wanted them for our own bikes. That being said as you may know the OEM leaves room for improvements so we took an OEM fairing from a late model FXRP and duplicated it at 100% (both inside and out)  building a mold that would correct the weaknesses in the original fairing and where each piece came out identical The fiberglass was hand laid in the molds giving us a strong yet light and affordable finished product.  As you know, in the event fiberglass is broken or damaged, it can easily be repaired to its original look . The fairings are fresh and new giving you an attractive alternative to the original fairings of the 80’s and the time that has taken its toll on them. These will need the final prep before paint.

You will need to mock-up, fill, sand, prep, prime & paint before installing.  

These are not a finished product!   

Although installation is pretty easy, we recommend having these installed by a professional.  

Lower fairing

Again we took some healthy lowers and build the mold to come out exactly as the originals where. After we pulled the first sets to our satisfaction, we looked at ways for improvements. Some of the folks that had been installing the original versions not made by us pointed out that they had been cracking where they attach to the frame mounts at the bottom. In trying to create the best product that we can, we decided to imbed  1/16 “ sheet metal into that weak area and layer it with the compositestrengthening this area against cracking in the future.

FXD frame mount

Here we wanted to use FXR fairings and hardware designed to fit the FXR chassis and mounting points on late model FXD’s.Two very different chassis. This had to be SOLID and SAFE, functional and look good. We looked at many alternatives and variations of doing this. Welding on the chassis was not an option. Excessive supports and bracketry cluttering the area was also not an option. We wanted to transplant the FXR chassis mounting points to the late model FXD chassis in a non-invasive way that would not permanently alter the structure or integrity of the chassis and yet could be completely removed  without so much as a scratch. After careful consideration and many engineering hours on the Bridgeport mill and the lathe we came out with the first prototype we called the FXD FRAME MOUNT. This adapter starts of as a 10lb solid piece of aluminum and is precisely hand milled and machined to give what we think is the best way to mount all the FXR components to the FXD frames giving the option of using the OEM FXR parts if desired.

Modular ”X” bracket

Another DEFAB innovation… after making  and installing the FXD frame mounts (above) on our FXDB , we brought our original fairing with the OEM fairing bracket  and slipped it on to the frame mount now installed on our shop bike. Everything mounted as desired and the fairing was now solidly fixed to the bike. We took a step back to enjoy our new achievement… and to our disappointment the fairing was not sitting where we wanted it, it was too far out and pointing in the wrong direction, towards the birds. Surely you have seen this before.The bike looked pieced together and did not have the FROWN of the FXRT’s and FXRD’ we loved so much.Back to the drawingboard. Again, we did not want to use shims and spacers that would compromise the integrity of the fairings at high speed and one bracket to fit all the applications . We had to make a bracket that was versatile and flexible to give the user the capability of placing the fairing in the position and angle they desired and fix it there. Thus the Modular”X”bracket. This bracket is a must have! Can be used in place of the original FXR fairing brackets on FXRs and our FXD kits. With today’s different rakes, forks, fork tube length and other modifications being made to the motorcycles, this is the bracket for you. We all know what the OEM one sell for if you can find one. These are laser cut for precision fit and finish.

Light cover lenses

Again, we wanted to give you the best product for the money, thicker yet softer rubber seal is amongst some of the tweaks we did along with other proprietary modifications to give the best fit and look to this lens. We have these in tinted, red, orange clear and will be doing blue and green shortly. Specify color when ordering. Instructions for mounting included. 


This is our sport cut shield, it high enough for touring to cut the wind yet sleek and sporty. Lexan for safety, clear. Easily tinted if desired.


Upper fairing mounts:   In steel , jig build FXR or FXD

Fairing mid mount : In steel , jig build FXR or FXD

Lower fairing frame mount: Made of ballistic steel, you asked us to improve on these mounts and this is what we came up with.

Required Hardware

  • 16 x hex head bolts with 2 medium sized washers and nylock nut each. ¾”x1/4 {6M x 20}
  • 5 x Hex head bolts with 2 medium sized washers and nylock nut each. 2”x5/16 {8M x 50}
  • Tank bolt  medium sized washers and nylock nut. 5" x 5/16 {8M x 125}
  • Well nuts, we choose to buy them off Amazon, but you can find them elsewhere,  


  • 11 x Wellnuts for the windshiels and the light lens.
  • 8x additional Wellnuts if you are running the light pods.


    Wind®flow extended shield

    • Make sure that the temperature is above 70 degrees F (to assure good adhesion of the 3M(tm)Dual Locks. This LIP is attached to the painted surface of the fairing at the sides of the shield.
    • Place the motorcycle on level ground . have someone sit on the motorcycle to help with alignment. clean the surfaces where the Dual Locks will be located with the enclosed alcohol pad .
    • Dry thoroughly, the surface should not feel slippery to your thump. With the Dual locks mated to the LIP peel the plastic release film. Align the LIP and windshield yet holding the lip just away from the windshield (in mounting you may bend the LIP more open if needed).
    • Allow the bottom end of the Dual Locks on one side to make con-tact, then, making sure that the LIP and windshield upper edges are level(your buddy's job) allow the other side to touch.
    • Try to get the surfaces of the windshield and LIP as parallel as possible in the areas where the Dual locks the maximum surface contact. The gap at the center should be 1" to 2"or so.
    • Press the Lip and windshield together at the Dual Lock locations (min. 15 lbs. pressure) to insure good bonding. 
    • Tomorrow check and press it again, the adhesives are time cured and should be nearly set up in 24 hours; however, you canride now if you want.
    • To remove the Lip, the Dual Locks must be separated.
    • To do this use a kitchen or butter knife (not sharp). While pulling the Lip away from the shield use the knife to slice the Dual Locks apart.
    • Once started they should not be too difficult to separated.If Dual Lock (adhesive0 is removed do not reuse.
    • Save your  extra Dual Locks. Occasionally check integrity of mounts. Please see "laminarlip.